Gable Hoods

The English Gable Hood is one of the most famous pieces of Tudor Clothing. Many of the period's best know characters are portrayed wearing one, such as Katherine of Aragon and Jane Seymour. The Gable Hood began as a pointed headress with decorated lappets (sides panels) (shown in the portrait of Elizabeth of York below). It eventually evolved into its best known form (shown below in the other four pictures). This more complex hood was a box frame covered in decorative fabric with two 90 degree pieces of material hanging off the back. These two pieces were sometimes pinned up (as shown in the Jane Seymour portrait below) or left unpinned (as in the portrait of Katherine of Aragon).

(See Diagram to the Right)

A) Main section, covering the frame

B) 2 hanging pieces and back

C) Front piece

D) Coif

E) Adornments/Billaments

Materials Needed

Fabric:

-Half yard of a very decorative fabric to cover the main part of the hood (A)

-a half yard to a full yard (depending how long you want them) of solid fabric to make up the 2 back hanging pieces and back (B)

-half yard of stripped fabric to make up the front overlapping piece (C)

-a half yard of white fabric to make up the under coif (D).

Adornment/Billament Pieces (E)

Plastic Canvas* (It is a lot easier to sew with and more firm for the form, and it's really cheap too!)

*If you don't know what plastic canvas is, click here.

Thick Thread (strong enough to not break under pressure)

Pattern (Click for a link to the pattern I made)

Directions

1) Cut the pattern pieces out on construction paper or another type of thick paper. Label the pieces. I taped the pieces together (using the directions below) to make sure it fit correctly and looked the way I wanted before I cut the real base out. The measurements may change person to person, so don't be afraid to adjust the pattern. (See Photo 2 in the right column).

2) Once you have your paper pattern fit correctly, take it apart and lay it on the plastic canvas. Cut the pattern out with the plastic canvas and label the pieces.

3) Now that you have the base pieces cut, we will begin with the main section of the hood, (the actual gable part). We will begin with pattern pieces A, B, and C (Pay attention to the numbers of each one you need). Lay pieces on the under fabric and cut. leaving 1/2 inch to an 1 inch extra fabric. For my under fabric I used a thick white/off-white material.

*Note: Part C (both pieces) will need two pieces of under material each (Four pieces all together). This will keep the plastic canvas from showing on the inside when you wear it. (Notice in the diagram above you can see into the hood from the side).

4) Similarly, cut out the pieces you will need from the outter most fabric (the fabric that will show on the outside). Cut out Pattern pieces G from the top material you plan to use (if different). You do not need under fabric for G.

4) Sew each fabric piece to the plastic canvas cut outs with the thick thread (which should match your outter fabric so it will not show). Cover both sides of Part C only.

5) Repeat step 4 with the outter fabric.

6) For piece A I found a decorative ribbon and sewed it on the plastic canvas and under fabric. I then added billaments I made to it. I found this to bee very easy, but you could also use decorative fabric to cover it. Attack G pieces to A. I used the overlapping affect as shown on the Jane Seymour portrait (Part C on the Hood Diagram above).

7) Now the actual assembling of the hood begins. Take part A and attach two B cut outs to the top with the thick thread. The cut outs in the plastic canvas can be used as a guide.

8) Once the top is finished, attach both C pieces to the sides of A. Once the C pieces are secured, add the remaining two B pieces to the sides over the C pieces.

9) Now that the main section of the hood is complete, we can start on the back. Like with the first part, cut out the plastic canvas, under and top fabric pieces using the pattern for D and F.

10) Sew the under fabric on each piece, then the top fabric.

11) E does not need plastic canvas. For part E, cut out two top fabric pieces for each piece (4 all together). Sew them together so the seams are on the inside. The very top doesn't matter because it will be hidden, so leave the top unfinished so it can be attached later.

12) Attach all F pieces to the sides of D.

13) Attach both E pieces to the bottom F pieces on D.

14) Attach D (with the F pieces) to the finished part of the hood.

Now it's finished!

Photos of my hood making process will be posted here soon!

(See diagram to the left)

A) Cornet/Bongrace Section

B) Pleated Frill (possibly part of a coif)

C) Veil

D) Adornments/Billaments

Materials:

Stiff boarding (I used plastic canvas as shown above in the Gable Hood construction because it is flexible yet stiff, and easy to sew with).

Fabric for covering the hood and veil (I would suggest about 1 yard to 1 1/2 yard depending on how long you want the veil.) Unless you are using a really thick material, you will need about 1/2 yard of felt, flannel or another thick fabric for the under fabric. This will be hidden under the top, main fabric. I suggest a light color, such as white or beige for the under fabric. The under fabric will keep the plastic canvas outlines from showing through.

Pleated Ribbon: You can buy ribbon already pleated or pleat it yourself with an iron or thread (you need about 1/2 yard)

Adornments/Billaments (beads, etc.-I used plastic pearls, which you can get a bag for about 3-4 dollars for 100+). Note: Make sure the beads, etc. you get have holes to thread string through to attach.

Thich Thread (so it won't snap under pressure-should be same color as top fabric) and Medium to Large Sewing Needle

Pattern (click for my pattern)

Directions:

1) Cut out the pattern (I would suggest construction paper because it is thicker and more sturdy) and test it in a mirror to see if it looks like what you want.*

*It took me a while to finally get the measurements and look of the base right. Measurements will vary from person to person, so don't worry if your's is different than mine. Just go with what you thinks looks the best, and feels the most comfortable.

2) Using your pattern, trace and cut it out with your plastic canvas.

3) Now, cut out the pattern with the material. Note: Leave about a half inch or so extra fabric around the edges. These will be used during the construction, but will not be visible once the hood is finished.

4) Now the prep work is done and the real construction of the hood begins. Take the crown (main curved part) of the hood and sew the under fabric on the front. Now do so on the back.

5) Once the under fabric is secured, sew the top fabric on the front.

6) When sweing the top fabric on the back of the crown, make sure the extre fabric from the front is being covered. Turn edges under from the back fabric, making sure it no extra fabric is showing, and that the top fabric is smooth.

7) If you want to add a pleated frill to the crown, do so now.

8) I bought a simple hair band to help keep the hood on my head comfortably. Taking extra fabric I sewed a simple "tube" wide enough for the head band to fit through snuggly. I then attached the fabric "tube" to the curve of the hood (the part that sits on your head). This part is tricky and takes a lot of patience and testing. The billaments and/or pleated fringe will hide the headband.

Another option would be attaching string to the ends of the hood and tying it under your chin.

8) Now we begin adding billaments. I used plastic pearls with holes in the center, making it much easier to sew. You can use what ever you would like. The billaments also help cover up the thread from attaching the fabric.

9) Now it is time to add the veil (also optional). Seam all the edges of the veil, then sew is along the top back edge of the crown.

Now it's finished!!!

Diagram of a French Hood:

A) Cornet/Bongrace Section, B) Pleated Frill (possibly part of a coif), C) Veil, D) Adornments/Billaments

Coming soon!

How to Make a Coif

Coming soon!

Make Up of A Flat Hood

More coming soon!

Make Up of an Atifet

More coming soon!

Head Dressing changed drastically in the Elizabethan Period. More and more of the woman's hair was shown. Billaments and other forms of jewelry were prominently displayed in the fashionable curly styles. The portraits below show some of these new styles.

Coming Soon!